A warning - high current loads can kill you. Handle with care and if you are not sure about what you are doing - don't.
The assembled coils + mounting brackets + links (minus flippers):
They are actually shown 'up side down', so we got Right-flippers on the left and Left-flippers on the right. If it's not seen in the picture I'm using FL-11629 coils (the strongest) since I hate weak flippers! Might need to change the upper two flippercoils for a tad weaker thou, since they'll be closer to the targets.
And here's the wiring for non-fliptronics flippers (i.e flippers are not digitally controlled):
Basically - The lug with both wires (1) connect to the power supply. The remaining two lugs (2 and 3) are connected to the EOS (End of Stroke) switch that when closed, enables current to pass through both coil windings - thus eliminating burnt coils when the flipperbutton is continuously held in. The wire from lug 3 continues to the flipper switch/button and eventually connects to the ground.
Be careful to use the correct EOS-switch setting for the setup, in this case it should be a normally CLOSED switch. I did the mistake (in a newer post) where I burnt the coil using a reversed EOS-switch.
(Can't remember whose picture this is, but hopefully I didn't step on anyone's toes here)
An excellent webpage of the entire setup can be found here: http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=159
At the moment I havn't yet decided if the final version will be fliptronics or non, but it's possible to change that in the future without TOO much hassle. I've always preferred direct control since it's a more instant response than fliptronics - which can cause delays for a few millisec.
The pro's about fliptronics are that you can enable/disable flippers easily, perform ball-searches, play custom sounds when flipping etc. A LOT of possibilities!
The con's would be delay and a slightly more complex setup. And two to four solenoid relays are bound to flippers instead of playfield machinery etc.